A couple of my Twitter mates are heading Down Under to New Zealand and I promised to blog about some of the best things about my homeland. Of course this is Vegemitevix’s own guide, so you can expect it to be a mixture of stuff – some foodie haunts, some outdoorsy scenic stuff, things kids might like and other stuff just for adults. The more I travel the more I build up a picture of what the outside world knows about New Zealand. It generally comes down to:
1/ Lots of sheep
2/Beautiful scenic places
3/Remote and unsophisticated
4/Bungy
5/The All Blacks
6/Mud pools and geysers (pronounced guy-zers not geezers!)
But there’s more to NZ than that!!!
From English tourists fall into one of two camps – either the ‘see it before we die on a last retiree fling’ gang, or the ‘young backpackers who wish to throw themselves off a bridge before heading to Australia for their real gap year adventures’ gang.
NZ isn’t just a holiday destination for these groups, there’s lots to do and see for couples wanting a romantic time, or families wanting to have fun together.
The biggest mistake tourists make when visiting Godzone is assuming there’s not a lot to see, and that they can see it all in four days. That’s like allowing yourself four days to drive yourself around Great Britain! To make matters worse, NZ roads demand respect. There are few motorways and in some of the more spectacular parts of the country the road can be windy and one way – difficult to negotiate by camper van. Not impossible just difficult. In winter, ice and snow can be a feature of mountainous roads. Needless to say mountain bikers, do study the topographical map before committing to cycling around NZ!
Of course there are all the obvious places to see like the Rotorua geothermal area, Bungy jumping in Queenstown or Kawerau River and the Sky Tower in Auckland, but here’s some ideas of a few of my favourite things in NZ. Consider it the alternative tourist guide.
1/Auckland – NZ’s big smoke and my home town.
A small city sandwiched in between two magnificent harbours Auckland is typically the gateway to NZ. Many tourists dismiss it because they want to get out into the country, particularly to the South Island. If you hail from London or Edinburgh Auckland seems quaint and quiet but the key to having a good time in Auckland is to discover its maritime and multicultural roots.You could catch a ferry over to Devonport and snap the city skyline and the Auckland Harbour Bridge from the harbour. Climb Mt Victoria behind Devonport and ramble through the old gun turrets and tunnels, great fun for the kids and then head down to the beach and have fish n chips on the beach or a serious coffee in one of the smart cafes. If you have limited time head down the waterfront to Mission Bay and enjoy the buzz of a multicultural city with Polynesian families playing cricket or touch rugby on the grass and new Asian Kiwis enjoying a swim in the tide, or in the fountain.
Other different views of Auckland include – Otara or Avondale markets (Sundays) for a taste of the largest Polynesian city in the world and Food Alley in Albert St for the best and cheapest Chinese and Asian ethnic food.
2/Black beauty – the beauty of Auckland’s west coast beaches is not your Malibu-esque bleached white sand. The West Coast features black sand (heavy in iron ore I think) and excellent surf. I think I love it because it’s wild, not despite it. Try a long walk down Muriwai, visit the gannet colony at the southern end of the beach, or visit Piha and try your luck with the surf. Just stay within the flags. Seriously! If it’s a hot day don’t forget footwear (jandals) the black sand burns your feet!
3/Waiheke – I love heading out for the day on the ferry over to Waiheke. An island in the Auckland harbour Waiheke has some decent beaches, (Palm Beach is a nice white sandy beach suitable for a picnic with the kids) some funky hippie-chic cafes and some excellent wineries. Try some of the world class wines at Mudbrick Vineyard, at the cellar door or sit out on the patio with a glass or two looking out over the harbour back to the city on the horizon. A romantic spot we have very fond memories of! Bliss!
4/Shopping – it may not have the kudos of Orchard Road in Singapore, but Auckland is a great place to spend your pound or your greenback. NZ designers are innovative, original and funky. For fashion at full price try Newmarket or Ponsonby where you’ll see Karen Walker, Trelise Cooper and others. For a bargain try the outlet shopping centres, particularly Dressmart in Onehunga which offers excellent reductions. Expect to see Timberland and Esprit and a variety of other brands at fantastic prices. NZ is a great place to buy outdoors equipment and clothing – check out the merino wool warmth of Icebreaker and the practical wear and design of Katmandhu. If the guys can’t bear the thought of shopping send them out fishing, or even golfing, or to an All Blacks’ game at Eden Park.
5/Narnia – getting out of the big city now and heading south east-ish I recommend visiting the Coromandel Peninsula. It’s where many Aucklanders go to spend their holidays and it is simply beautiful. Expect beautiful beaches, pristine bush walks, and a sense of calm that floats in the air like a voile curtain. Check out booking a bach (beach cottage) at www.bookabach.com to get the best of the summer on the Coromandel.
Just out of Hahei is the wonderful Cathedral Cove, a spectacular natural limestone archway similar to Durdle Door in Dorset. This is where they shot scenes for The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian. It is truly beautiful, but a little busy now with tourist traffic. If you feel like getting away from the herd take a detour on your walk to the cove, head off to Stingray Bay, or Gemstone Bay. Don’t forget to head south of Hahei to Hot Water Beach. At low tide take a spade and dig yourself a hole in the sand which will fill with naturally hot water!
6/New Chums beach – one of my favourite spots in the world and that includes the wonderful tropical North Queensland and Thailand. New Chums was on the list of top ten beaches as reported by one of the major UK newspapers. One of its delights is the adventure of getting there. At the south end of Whangapoua beach (on the Coromandel peninsula) there is a track that leads around the rocky coastline. It is a little steep in places, and best walked at low tide. You’ll need something on your feet with good grip. Walk for 30 minutes over the rocks, through the bush (pretend you’re Going on a Bear Hunt) over the headland and descend onto a remote unspoilt beach. Great surf here but be cautious if you’re not a strong swimmer, and keep one eye scanning for sharks. (They don’t eat much!)
7/Tirau – If you’re travelling by car and heading south from Auckland chances are you’ll head through this cute little town, known for its corrugated iron sculptures. Stop at the pub for a bite and you’ll feel almost at home with the pictures screwed into the walls (just like in England) and the landlady’s Geordie accent!
8/Ruakuri – Your guides will probably head you off to the Waitomo Glow worm Caves but I think Ruakuri is far better! Ruakuri is spectacular and the Maori guide we had told a great yarn. We had a giggle as once we spotted one stalagmite that had a phallic look we couldn’t stop seeing limestone organs in every direction!
9/Mordor – Again you may have tourist maps that lead you to Hobbiton and the Lord of the Rings’ film settings but I’m not sure whether they will send you up the Mountain of Doom itself. The famous Tongariro Crossing is a major walk on the ridge between Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngaruhoe. Best traversed during the summer months, even then the weather can change rapidly and conditions can become very difficult. This is not a walk for sandals or bikinis. A good 18kms or so it’s not suitable for the very unfit or children. However, all that aside it really is a brilliant walk and if the actual crossing is closed because of inclement weather there are other options including the walk to the Tama Lakes – irridescent blue/green lakes in the upper volcanic valleys. Guided tours leave most days from Taupo and pick you up at the end of the walk. Exhilarating and well worth it, if only to be able to say that you walked to Mt Mordor!
10/Dolphin buddies – There are a number of places around NZ where you can swim with dolphins including from Paihia in the Bay of Islands and out of Whitianga on the Coromandel Peninsula. It is a lovely experience, though be prepared for it to be an energetic swim! Dolphins swim fast and you’ll be grateful for the flippers and wetsuit the tour operator offers you. The tour I went on from Paihia impressed me greatly as it was so respectful with the way it treated the dolphins. We were very much in the sea on their terms and if they didn’t want to play with us we were instructed to leave them be. Nice.
That’s the first ten on the Vegemitevix tiki tour around NZ’s North Island. In part two I’ll come up with some stunners in the South Island.
images -
My Englishman – copyright M Jeffels.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/timparkinson/263819208/sizes/l/
Tin dog – http://www.flickr.com/photos/mouse/8025985/
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